Susa in Val di Susa
Beautiful roman town and hidden gem in western Piedmont

I’ll be honest with you: I didn’t go looking for Susa, Susa found me. It was one of those road trips where you do a spontaneous stopp, and suddenly end up in a place that completely steals your heart. That’s exactly what happened to me here.

Tucked away between alpine peaks, Roman ruins and that laid-back Italian vibe we all crave, Susa hit me with love at first sight. And since that day, it’s become a must-see stop on every itinerary I plan for friends visiting Piedmont.

Strategically nestled in the Susa Valley, just over an hour west of Turin and right at the foot of the mighty Rocciamelone, Susa offers something I rarely find elsewhere: a mix of Roman history, medieval charm, and mountain air, all without the crowds.

Surely, one of the most underrated towns in the Italian Alps.

I’ll show you why Susa is so much more than just a stopover on the way to the Alps and why you should absolutely add this little-known gem to your Piedmont bucket list.

Things to see in Susa – my personal Susa Highlights

The first time I wandered through Susa’s historic old town, I honestly didn’t expect much.
And maybe that’s exactly why it blew me away.

Around every corner, there were crumbling Roman walls, arched medieval gateways, and tiny little details whispering stories from centuries past. I kept stopping, turning, staring – this little town is full of surprises.

Here are some of my favourite highlights, a mix of fascinating history and small moments that made me smile:

Arch of Augustus (Arco di Augusto)

This one really took my breath away. You’re in the middle of a quiet mountain town… and suddenly you’re standing in front of this towering marble arch that looks like it belongs in Rome.

The Arco di Augusto was built in 8 BC in honour of Emperor Augustus and is made from white marble. At over 13 metres high, it’s one of the best-preserved Roman monuments in northern Italy. Impressive? Absolutely.

But the part that really fascinated me: the arch is perfectly aligned with the summit of Rocciamelone, the dramatic mountain that watches over the valley. It’s as if the Romans were already playing with symmetry and landscape like true artists.

Back in the day, this spot marked the Via Cottia, a major Roman road connecting ancient Turin with modern-day Gap in France. A proper crossroads of the empire!

Roman Amphitheater (Anfiteatro Romano)

In Rome, you’ll often queue for hours and pay over €20 to step inside the Colosseum.
In Susa? You’ll probably have the entire arena to yourself and it’s completely free to visit. Yep, no ticket, no crowds, just you and a slice of Roman history.

The Roman amphitheatre of Susa dates back to the 2nd century AD and, with dimensions of just 45 by 47 metres, it’s actually the smallest Roman arena in all of Italy.

But don’t let the size fool you, it still feels powerful. Standing in the centre, it’s easy to imagine the roar of the crowd, the clash of armour, and the venationes – staged wild animal hunts that were once held here.

One fascinating detail: for centuries, the arena was completely buried under layers of earth. The nearby Merdarello stream slowly filled it in with sediment over time. It wasn’t until 1956 to 1961 that archaeologists finally unearthed it. Digging out six full metres of soil to bring it back to light.

Today, you can just walk right in, no barriers, no entry booth. It’s one of those places that quietly impress and a total hidden gem, not only for history lovers.

Castle of Countess Adelaide (Castello della Contessa Adelaide)

This castle has layers – literally and historically. It was likely built on top of the ruins of a former Celtic governor’s residence, and over the centuries it was rebuilt and expanded again and again.

Its most famous resident was Adelaide of Susa, one of the most influential women of her time. Through her marriage to Odo of Savoy in 1035, she laid the foundation for the rise of the House of Savoy, a dynasty that would go on to shape European politics and eventually rule Italy up to the 20th century.

For centuries, the castle served as a noble residence, even hosting names like St. Francis of Assisi, King Louis XIII and Cardinal Richelieu. Imagine the stories these walls could tell!

In 1806, after a Napoleonic decree, the fortress was slowly abandoned and eventually handed over to the local municipality.

After 15 years of careful restoration, the castle finally reopened in 2017 and now houses a beautifully designed ethnographic museum.

Its focus is the role of Alpine passes in shaping the history of the Susa Valley and the Savoy region. Super interesting if you’re into geography, trade routes, or how places gain power through location.

⇨ You’ll find opening hours and ticket info here. If you’re using the Torino & Piedmont Card you’ll get discounted entry. And yes, I’ve written a full breakdown on whether the card is actually worth it.

Gate of Paradise (Porta Savoia) & Cathedral of San Giusto

One of my favourite photo spots in Susa is the Porta Savoia, also called the “Paradise Gate” and yes, it really does look like a portal into another time.

This impressive Roman gate marks the western edge of the old city wall, and its two massive cylindrical towers date back to the 3rd or 4th century BC.

Standing in front of them, you really feel how strategically important Susa must have been back then, a stronghold guarding the Alpine routes.

Originally, the towers were probably even taller and allowed 360° views through narrow openings, perfect for defence.

What’s really special here is the contrast: right next to this Roman gate stands the San Giusto Cathedral, built in the 10th century.

From the outside, it’s rather modest but step inside and you’ll find a surprisingly intricate blend of Romanesque and Gothic details that somehow fit together beautifully.

If you enjoy visiting old churches (or just appreciate peaceful places full of character), this is definitely one to pause and soak in.

Church of Santa Maria del Ponte (Chiesa della Madonna del ponte)

Sometimes it’s the places you almost walk right past that end up being the most memorable. That’s exactly what happened to me at the Chiesa della Madonna del Ponte, a surprisingly large church that I almost missed. Luckily, something made me stop and take a closer look.

The church dates back to the 13th century and is named after a delicate wooden statue: the Madonna del Ponte. This beautiful figure was carved from limewood, likely in the 12th century, and made its way here all the way from the Pyrenees.

You won’t find the statue inside the church anymore, though. Today it’s housed just a few steps away in the Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art, which has been connected to the church since 2000.

Confession time: I haven’t actually made it into the museum yet. But if you’re into religious art, medieval sculpture, or just enjoy discovering old craftsmanship, it definitely seems worth the stop.

⇨ You’ll find details on opening hours and entry here. Admission is free with the Torino & Piemonte Card, by the way.

Other sights in the city of Susa include

• Roman aqueduct / Acquedotto romano (4th century)
• Church and monastery of San Francesco / Chiesa di San Francesco (13th century)
• Church of Santa Maria Maggiore / Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore (10th century)

Walking Tour Through Susa

Susa is one of those places that’s best explored on foot. Everything is close together, but there’s something new and unexpected around almost every corner. It’s the perfect town for a slow-paced wander with plenty of history and a healthy dose of Italian dolce vita.

I’d recommend setting aside around 1.5 hours for your walk through town. That’s enough time to see the main highlights like the Arch of Augustus, the Roman amphitheatre, and Porta Savoia without rushing. If you’d like to visit any of the museums as well, plan a bit more time.

Your perfect starting point? The Piazza della Repubblica, which is not only the main parking area but also home to the tourist information office.

Pop in there and grab the free 3D map. I found it super helpful and actually kind of fun to use. Plus, it keeps you from wandering in circles (unless that’s your thing).

Local foodie tip: If you get hungry along the way (or let’s be real, even if you don’t), make a stop at Panificio Caffetteria Marzo in the pedestrian zone. Their fresh focaccia with rotating toppings is chef’s kiss. Just point, grab a slice, and keep strolling with lunch in hand.

Let’s walk in the pedestrian zone along Via Roma, where it honestly feels like you’ve stepped into an old Italian movie: cobblestones underfoot, small shops, the quiet hum of daily life.

And then, suddenly, the street opens up and you’re standing in front of the beautiful Church of Madonna del Ponte. Just a few steps further, you’ll cross the Dora Riparia River.

On the other side, narrow alleyways wind toward the Porta Savoia, that massive “Paradise Gate” with its twin round towers. Right next to it sits the San Giusto Cathedral, which is easy to miss because the gate tends to steal the spotlight.

From there, head into the Parco d’Augusto, a peaceful green space in the heart of town. Walk straight through and you’ll pass under the imposing Arch of Augustus, a moment that genuinely gave me chills.

Just a few metres ahead, you’ll find yourself next to remnants of the Roman aqueduct. No glass cases, no ropes, just ancient stonework standing quietly in the open air. It feels like a walk-through museum without the ticket line.

At the foot of the staircase, a narrow path flanked by stone walls leads past the small Church of La Grazie, another spot that’s easy to miss but worth a glance.

And then, suddenly, you arrive at the Roman amphitheatre and yes, it impressed me just as much the second time around.

From there, make your way toward the Piazza San Francesco, passing the church and former monastery of the same name. Then it’s a gentle stroll back toward where we started: across the bridge to Piazza Novembre, a final wander through the pedestrian zone, and back to the parking area.